Mounting Scheme – Watermaker Blue Gold ZERO 12V.pdf
Mounting Scheme – Watermaker Blue Gold Just Water PRO Version 12-24V.pdf
Mounting Scheme – Watermaker Blue Gold Just Water LIGHT Version 12-24V.pdf

230 Volt Models

Mounting Scheme – Watermaker Blue Gold Just Water PRO Version 230V.pdf
Mounting Scheme – Watermaker Blue Gold Just Water LIGHT Version 230V.pdf

The switches are 5 Amperes SENSATA AIRPAX toggle handle hydraulic magnetic circuit breaker with rechargeable automatic fuse.

Designed on purpose for the marine environment. In case of heavy overload (i.e.: short circuits), the circuit breaker disconnects instantaneously; for overloads up to 50% it maintains the contact for few seconds so, in case it is due to a chance event, it has time to return within the limits without interrupting the power supply. In case of short circuit, the switch cannot be reactivated until the problem is solved.

sensata-LEJ-LEJA-series-hydraulic-magnetic-circuit-protectors-datasheet.pdf

Regarding the MZ0180 Power Relay + MZ1030 Adapter for single-pole Contactors please refer to the dedicated post.

IMPORTANT: For the power line to the motor of the high pressure pump, please use a 35 mm2 electric cable and keep it as short as possible.

The switches are 5 Amperes SENSATA AIRPAX toggle handle hydraulic magnetic circuit breaker with rechargeable automatic fuse.

Designed on purpose for the marine environment. In case of heavy overload (i.e.: short circuits), the circuit breaker disconnects instantaneously; for overloads up to 50% it maintains the contact for few seconds so, in case it is due to a chance event, it has time to return within the limits without interrupting the power supply. In case of short circuit, the switch cannot be reactivated until the problem is solved.

sensata-LEJ-LEJA-series-hydraulic-magnetic-circuit-protectors-datasheet.pdf

Regarding the MZ0180 Power Relay + MZ1030 Adapter for single-pole Contactors please refer to the dedicated post.

IMPORTANT: For the power line to the motor of the high pressure pump, please use a 35 mm2 electric cable and keep it as short as possible.

The switches are 5 Amperes SENSATA AIRPAX toggle handle hydraulic magnetic circuit breaker with rechargeable automatic fuse.

Designed on purpose for the marine environment. In case of heavy overload (i.e.: short circuits), the circuit breaker disconnects instantaneously; for overloads up to 50% it maintains the contact for few seconds so, in case it is due to a chance event, it has time to return within the limits without interrupting the power supply. In case of short circuit, the switch cannot be reactivated until the problem is solved.

sensata-LEJ-LEJA-series-hydraulic-magnetic-circuit-protectors-datasheet.pdf

The switches are 5 Amperes SENSATA AIRPAX toggle handle hydraulic magnetic circuit breaker with rechargeable automatic fuse.

Designed on purpose for the marine environment. In case of heavy overload (i.e.: short circuits), the circuit breaker disconnects instantaneously; for overloads up to 50% it maintains the contact for few seconds so, in case it is due to a chance event, it has time to return within the limits without interrupting the power supply. In case of short circuit, the switch cannot be reactivated until the problem is solved.

sensata-LEJ-LEJA-series-hydraulic-magnetic-circuit-protectors-datasheet.pdf

Manual Just Water English – Rev.002 (2022).pdf
Manual Just Water Deutsch – Rev.002 (2022).pdf

– The feed pump takes the seawater from the thru-hull and pulls it through a 20 mm. hose to the “Easy Flushing System” (D in the image).
– From the “Easy Flushing System” the seawater is pulled through a 20 mm. hose to the prefilter unit (E in the image) and from this one towards the inlet of the high pressure pump (F in the image).
– From the outlet of the high pressure pump, the seawater is forced to the inlet of the reverse osmosis membranes unit at a pressure of about 60 BAR (A in the image).
-The vessel/membranes assembly has two outlets:
— Saltwater, discard or brine (B in the image).
— Freshwater (G in the image).
– The brine passes through the safety valve and goes to the pressure regulation valve (C in the image). The manometer mounted together with the regulation valve shows the working pressure of the system (60 BAR max.)
– After passing through the regulation valve, the brine is sent outboard through a 16 mm. hose (L in the image). In our installation a TEE collects the brine from the regulation valve and from the safety valve (M and L in the image) and sends it outboard (N in the image).
– The freshwater (permeate) goes from the permeate outlet of the membranes assembly to the flowmeter (G in the image). Here is mounted a digital inline TDS meter for checking the quality of the produced freshwater.
– At the outlet of the flowmeter is mounted a 3-way valve, which can send the permeate towards the tank of the boat through a 13 mm. hose or towards a test outlet (T1-T2 in the image). This 3-way must never stay closed or the membranes will be damaged (we use a “T” type valve which ever allows the flow to one of the two direction or towards both the direction, but never remains closed).

Several optional extensions and customizations can be made to our watermakers. Every boat is different and every boat owner has personal needs.
We can meet these needs and make suitable machines for individual customer needs.

WHAT CAN THE JUST WATER WATERMAKER DO

Your Blue Gold JUST WATER Watermaker is a watermaker that can produce fresh or drinking water from seawater by reverse osmosis.
The modular design allows for decentralized installation of its individual components to give you many options when it comes to space. The reverse osmosis membranes have a service life of approx. 1000 operating hours. The pre-filters, depending on the degree of contamination of the seawater, approx.50-100 operating hours.

BASIC INFORMATION ON THE PRODUCTION OF DRINKING WATER

Drinking water extraction is necessary wherever no drinking water is available from the tap/supply system. The aim of reverse osmosis is to reduce the components dissolved in seawater to a minimum. The “produced” freshwater is characterized by a very good drinking quality and is completely free of bacteria and viruses. Thus, it meets the highest standards and can be used for pure consumption as well as for the preparation of food and beverages.

THIS IS HOW DRINKING WATER PRODUCTION WITH THE HELP OF DESALINATION PLANTS WORKS

Seawater is forced at high pressure through one or more membranes that act as “molecular sieves” and allow only pure freshwater to pass through. Most dissolved solid particles do not pass through the membranes. The membrane is automatically cleaned by the system with seawater.
Not all particles dissolved in seawater can be filtered out. The system is designed to reject 99.4% of TDS (Totally Dissolved Solids); approximately 2% of the 35000 PPM/TDS passes through the membranes. This ensures drinking water with a TDS value of <500 ppm. A value <300 ppm is considered very good in the taste assessment.
Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile. However, your fresh water tank should be treated periodically with an appropriate dose of chlorine to ensure that it remains consumable.
We suggest to collect the drinking water in bottles and not to send it to the tank. You can use the test outlet to fill your bottles. This way you can separate the drinking water from the water for the showers and other uses.

A membrane unit can be fed by several pumps with different flow rates to achieve several outputs of freshwater.
The higher the productivity we want to achieve, the higher the pump flow rate will have to be, and thus also the electrical power required

Let’s start by describing which pumps can be applied to our membrane racks and see how much freshwater can be produced and what electrical power needs to be committed
Please note that these calculations are theoretical with pressures of 60 bar, water temperature of 25 degrees Celsius, and salinity of 32000 PPM. Although they fairly closely reflect practical results, a +/- 10% difference in productivity is to be considered perfectly normal.

Single membrane 2540 or two membranes 2521

The smallest of our pumps which can be coupled to a single 2540 membrane is a 4 l/h pump.
We couple this pump to a special 12-volt motor which limits its flow rate to 3.5 l/h and by absorbing only 370 Watts (30 Amperes) allows it to produce 55 l/h of freshwater.
This is our Watermaker model “ZERO” , and you can see it here

The same pump applied to another special motor that increases the flow rate to 4.8 l/min, using the same 2540 membrane, allows a production of more than 60 l/h with a power consumption of 550 Watts (about 46 Amperes @ 12Volt).
The same result is achieved by coupling our 5.7 l/min stainless steel pump with a motor that limits its flow rate to 4.8 l/min.
This is our series of Watermakers “Just Water” and it can be seen here.

Using a single phase 230V-750 Watt motor coupled with the 4 l/min high pressure pump, we can achieve 60 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker

Using a 8 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-1,1 kW motor, we can achieve 75 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker.

Using a 11 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-1,5 kW motor, we can achieve 90 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker.

The same results described above, can also be achieved using 2 membranes 2521 instead of one single membrane 2540. This solution is a little more expensive but it has the advantage of taking up less space aboard.

Two membranes 2540

Using a 8 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-1,1 kW motor, we can achieve 120 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker.

Using a 11 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-1,5 kW motor, we can achieve 150 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker.

Three membranes 2540

Using a 13 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-2,2 kW motor, we can achieve 200 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker.

Four membranes 2540

Using a 13 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-2,2 kW motor, we can achieve 250 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker.

Three membranes 2521

Using a 4 l/min high pressure punp, coupled with a special motor that increases the flow rate to 4.8 l/min,  and using 3x 2521 membranes, it is allowed a production of more than 80 l/h with a power consumption of 550 Watts (about 46 Amperes @ 12Volt).
The same result is achieved by coupling our 5.7 l/min stainless steel pump with a motor that limits its flow rate to 4.8 l/min.
This is our series of Watermakers “Just Water” and it can be seen here.

Using a single phase 230V-750 Watt motor coupled with the 4 l/min high pressure pump, we can achieve 80 l/h of freshwater.
Here you can see this watermaker

Four membranes 2521

Using a 11 l/min high pressure pump coupled with a single or three phase(s) 230/400V-1,5 kW motor, we can achieve about 140 l/h of freshwater.
This Watermaker is made upon order of the client.

FEED PUMPS FOR SEAWATER SUPPLY

A feed pump is almost always needed to bring the salt water to the inlet of the high pressure pump.

Magnetic Driven Feed Pump (not self priming)

This pump must be fitted immediately after the sea water intake and its ball valve. We supply top quality magnetic drive pumps for this purpose. They are saltwater resistant and maintenance-free. The pump housing is made entirely of plastic, and there is no shaft or rotary seal between the motor and pump.

These pumps are extremely quiet and draw very small amounts of current, but they are not self-priming, so it is necessary to install them below the seawater level, immediately after the seawater inlet, taking care that they are properly flooded.

We supply 2 models of 230 V magnetic driven pumps:
TMB30 for all the applications
TMB65 for applications with longer pipes or higher heading (there is a small price difference for ordering this model).

In the below tables their features and performances

The models with magnetic drive do not require maintenance and are resistant to salt water. They do not need to be backwashed. This is a great advantage.

Gear or Impeller Feed Pump (self priming)

If the feed pump needs to be placed above the seawater level, a magnetic driven pump cannot be used.
In this case (please ask for a technical consultation) we can supply several kinds of pumps (centrifugal pumps, gear pumps, impeller pumps) which are self priming and can be placed above the seawater level. We suggest to wash these pumps with freshwater (especially the centrifugal and gear pumps) before decommissioning the watermaker during the winter.

The device consists of two check valves and a solenoid valve, and is placed before the pre-filter assembly.
Here you can download the quick reference guide to see the positioning of the device in the installation of the watermaker.

Components of the device:

E – Outlet to the prefilter unit (20 mm.)
H – Inlet from the carbon filter (13 mm.)
D – Inlet of the seawater (20 mm.)
1 – Hose adapter 1/2″x 20 mm
2 – TEE Fitting 1/2″
3 – Elbow M/F 1/2″
4 – Nipples M/M 1/2″
5 – Check Valve 1/2″ (Nylon & AISI 316L)
6 – Solenoid Valve 12V or 24V (freshwater for flushing)
7 – Nipples F/F 1/2″
8 – Hose adapter 1/2″x 13 mm

Description of Functioning:

During normal operation of the watermaker, the salt water, carried by the feed pump, flows from D to E passing through the check valve 5.
The check valve 5 prevents back pressure from opening the solenoid valve 6.
The solenoid valve 6 is not engaged and remains closed: the fresh water for flushing will not flow through.

It is very important to use a check valve 5 of good quality and suitable for use with salt water. Our valves are made of nylon and fibreglass with spring and closing plate in AISI 316L stainless steel.
Do not use normal brass valves in this position, as the internal mechanism is not stainless steel and you will run into problems. These valves are not suitable for use with salt water. The same applies to valve 8.
We use a valve that opens very easily, as smaller feed pumps (12-volt models) must be able to make the water flow smoothly. It is a valve with a simple rubber flap.

During the system flushing, the solenoid valve 6 is engaged and opens. The pressure pump of the boat starts and the fresh water flows from H to E through the check valve 5. During this operation the check valve 5 prevents the fresh water from flowing back to the feed pump and mixing with the salt water here.

The system, with a focus on limiting manpower costs, is supplied as an assembly kit.
Assembling this device is elementary. Simply use Teflon tape to seal the threads, or better use Loctite 55, and match the flow direction with the flow direction indicated on both the solenoid valve and the check valves.

As can be seen, there is no timer to preset the flushing time of the system, which is always different depending on the number of membranes and the length of the hoses.

Flushing time: how to calculate it.

The time needed for rinsing a marine watermaker depends on several factors:
– the numbers of the membranes
– the length of the hoses of the plant
– the delivery of the pressure pump of the boat
– ….

therefore we cannot give a value in minutes for this time.
But there is a very simple trick to work out how long it takes to flush the system;

You can simply disconnect the reject/discard hose from the through hull and discharge the rinsing water into a bucket and constantly check its salinity by tasting it.

Once the water falling in the bucket is no longer salty at the taste, you can stop your watch and now you know how many time will it take in the future for rinsing your watermaker.

You can also know, for your information, how many liters of water are needed for the rinse.

Remember that the rinsing/flushing of the watermaker must be carried out without switching on the feed pump and the high pressure pump.

The filter elements must be installed to protect the high pressure pump and the reverse osmosis membranes.

We supply 2 kinds of prefilters, depending on the flow rate of the high pressure pump:

1 – Single prefilter 5 Micron x 10″ for the 12-24 Volt models and for the 230 Volt 750 Watt models.

Because of the small flow rate of this pump, a double prefilter is not needed. These smaller machines are often mounted on small boats with small spaces available, so definitely the single prefilter is the best solution. The maintenance of a single prefilter is also simpler and quicker. This prefilter is not fitted with the low pressure gauge, but if the clients wants it, we can supply it with a small surcharge.

The client will take care to assemble the provided fittings with the prefilter housing and insert the cartridge inside.

The hose adapter is for a hose with a diameter of 20 mm inside

2 – Double prefilter 20+5 Micron x 10″ for all the 230 Volt 1100, 1500, 2200 Watt models.

For the bigger high pressure pumps is needed a double prefilter. A first stage with a 20 Micron cartridge, followed from a second stage with a 5 Micron cartridge.

The client will take care to assemble the provided fittings with the prefilter housings and insert the cartridges inside.

The hose adapter is for a hose with a diameter of 20 mm inside

When positioning the prefilters, take care to leave 5 cm of gap below the container so that it can be disassembled and the cartridge can be removed.

Replacements of the cartridges

There isn’t any rule about the maintenance intervals of the filters.

It is in any case recommended to change the filters every 50/100 hours of operation. Their service life is closely related to the type of inlet water. When you remove the filter, you may notice that the color of the inner part of the cartridge is greyer than the outer part. The filter cartridge should never turn completely grey, it should be replaced before this happens.

Do not use washable filters, as they may be accidentally damaged during washing. If they are damaged, their efficiency will be compromised and the warranty for the pump will be voided.
Always use disposable polypropylene melt blown type filters with a filtration efficiency of at least 85%.

The Activated Carbon Filter removes the Chlorine from the water used to flush the membranes at the end of the desalination cycle.

If the tanks of the boat are filled both with osmosis water and water from the tap of the marina, there will be Chlorine inside, which will destroy the membranes. The activated carbon filter will stop the Chlorine.

This filter needs to be placed before the Easy Flushing System, so that all the freshwater coming from the tank of the boat and used for flushing the system is Chlorine free.

The client will take care to assemble the provided fittings with the filter housing and insert the cartridge inside.

The vessels come ready-made, but still then need to know how they are made and how to insert the membranes

VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE:
https://bit2.it/membranes-mounting

Parts of the Vessel Rack

1 – Vessel
2 – First and last heads (threaded)
3 – Intermediate heads (without thread)
4 – Bars
5 – Plates
6 – Washers and Nuts
7 – Brackets
8 – High Pressure Nipples (1/4″NPT x 1/4″ BSPP)
9 – Permeate quick fittings
10 – Nipple between the vessels
11 – Internal O-ring
12 – External O-ring
13 – Permeate hose

Preparation of the membrane vessel head

First and last head of the system
1 – Screw the high-pressure fitting into the stainless steel head.
2 – Mount the two O-rings on the membrane vessel heads.
3 – Mount the O-ring on the internal side of the vessel head

Important: the threads of the vessel head and of the nipple are NPT (conical), so in theory there is no need to use a sealant. Please use in any case one turn of Teflon tape or (better) liquid thread sealant.
The thread at the other side of the nipple is BSPP (cylindrical), and cannot get screwed into the vessel head.

Intermediate heads of the system
These heads are different and do not have any thread, because (later) they will connect the vessels over a special nipple with O-rings (n.10 in the above image).

1 – Mount the two O-rings on the membrane vessel heads.
2 – Mount the O-ring on the internal side of the vessel head

A – 1/4″ BSPP Thread
B – 1/4″ NPT Thread
C – Intermediate Heads without thread
D – First and last heads with 1/4″NPT thread

E – External O-ring
F – Internal O-ring
G – The head is ready

Preparation of the Vessel Pipe

1 – Attach the stickers with the number of the vessel and the flow direction
2 – Keep in mind the difference between FEED SIDE and BRINE SIDE of the vessel!

Insert the Membrane into the Vessel

1. First of all you must mount the head to the BRINE SIDE of the vessel.
2. Lubricate with silicon grease the O-rings of the head (internal and external) of the BRINE SIDE
3. Lubricate with silicon grease the end of the vessel (BRINE SIDE).
4. Insert the head into the open end of the vessel (BRINE SIDE).
5. Remove the membrane from its sealed bag.
   Once the membrane is removed from its sealed bag, the watermaker needs to be commissioned within max. 30/60 days.
   The membrane, like the vessel, has a FEED SIDE and a BRINE SIDE, and the flow direction is as well printed on its body. The flow direction of the membrane must match with the flow direction of the vessel.
   The membrane has one only O-ring placed at the FEED SIDE
6. Lubricate the ends of the membrane and the O-ring, and then insert the membrane in the vessel following the flow direction
   
7. Lubricate with silicon grease the O-rings of the head (internal and external) of the FEED SIDE.
   This head may be with or without thread, depending on the number of the vessels in the system:
   • – In a system with one vessel both the heads are threaded
   • – In a system of two vessels, both the vessels have one head with thread and one head without.
   • – In a system with three or four vessels, the intermediate vessels have both heads not threated, and the first and the last are like in two vessels system
8. Insert the head into the open end of the vessel (FEED SIDE).
   

Assemble the Vessels in a System of One or More Vessels

We show in the images a system of 2 vessels:

1. Lubricate the O-rings of the special nipple and insert it into the holes of the heads.
   Now the vessels are connected each other
   
2. Insert the heads into the holes of the plates and then insert the bars.
   
3. Place the washers and screw the hex. nuts in both the plates. Tighten the nuts with 2 wrenches 17 mm.
   It is not needed to overtighten the nuts.
4. Screw the blind nut and fit the inox brackets to the plates as shown in the images.
   
5. Insert and screw the plugs at one side of the outlet of the permeate
   
6. Mount the quick fittings at the other side of the outlet of the permeate.
   
7. You got the job done!
   The vessel rack can be mounted also vertically. In this case please take care that the outlet of the permeate with the quick fittings, stands on top

In the watermakers series PRO (with control panel) the safety valve is shipped disassembled. It can be mounted for either left or right-handed use.

Use only Teflon tape or liquid sealant for mounting.
Between the nipple (5) and the reduction 3/8-1/4 (3), do not use sealants but only the copper washer.
Also for the swiveling quick fitting (6) do not use any sealants because it is already provided with an O-ring

B – Connection to the outlet of the last vessel
C – Connection to the high pressure hose to the panel
M – Brine/Discard outboard

1 – Body of the safety valve
2 – Swiveling fitting 1/4″F BSPP x 1/4″M BSPT
3 – Reducing nipple 3/8″-1/4″
4 – Copper washer
5 – Nipple 1/4″ M-M BSPP
6 – Swiveling quick fitting 1/4″ x 12 mm

Setting the Safety valve

• Open the pressure regulation valve (2) completely.
• Open the safety valve (1) completely.
• Start the watermaker.
• Slowly close the pressure regulating valve (2) completely.
  The pressure should remain at 0 bar and all water is drained via the safety valve.
• Close the safety valve (1) slowly until 68 bar is displayed on the pressure gauge.
• Open the pressure regulation valve (2) completely
• Switch off the watermaker.

Reverse osmosis watermakers are sophisticated systems that demand meticulous upkeep. When product water flow decreases or TDS levels rise, some boaters who are out cruising are quick to blame the membranes. However, as we explain below, there are various plausible explanations for lower (or higher) product flow rates and TDS increasing.

Feed Water Temperature

You can quickly gauge the feed water temperature by using a basic thermometer (the thermometers in boat instrumentation are often inaccurate)

The feed water temperature has a notable impact on the flow rate of your product water. With reverse osmosis systems being rated based on feed water conditions of 32,000 ppm, 25°C (77°F), and operating at 55 bar (800 psi), it’s crucial to understand the effect of temperature on product water:
As the temperature increases, you can expect a higher TDS and a greater product flow rate. Conversely, a decrease in temperature results in lower TDS and a lower product flow rate. For instance, at 32°C (90°F), you may produce approximately 25% more water, whereas at 10°C (50°F), you could expect a 50% decrease.

In summary:
As Temperature Increases you get:
– Higher TDS
– Higher product flow rate
As Temperature Decreases you get:
– Lower TDS
– Lower product flow rate

Feed Water Salinity

You can measure feed water salinity easily with a refractometer. A refractometer is a simple-to-use device that utilizes light to measure salinity. If you don’t have a refractometer, you can consult this page that reports salt concentrations in all the seas.

Open the link by clicking on the below image, then click with the mouse on the place whose salinity you want to view

You can see that the salinity of the Mediterranean Sea is among the highest globally (about 38000 PPM), while it is much lower in the North Atlantic and Baltic Sea. There is also a significant differernce between the east and west coasts of the U.S.

Effect of Feed Water Salinity on Product Water:

The salinity level of feed water has a notable impact on the flow rate of product water. When the salinity is increased, the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the product water also increase, and the flow rate decreases. Conversely, when the salinity is decreased, the TDS in the product water decrease, and the flow rate increases.

If the feed water has a salinity level of 35,000 ppm, you can anticipate a reduction of approximately 10% in the amount of product water. On the other hand, if the salinity level of the feed water is 25,000 ppm, you can expect a boost of approximately 25% in the amount of product water.

In summary:
As Salinity Increases you get:
– Higher TDS
– Lower product flow rate
As Salinity Decreases you get:
– Lower TDS
– Higher product flow rate

Influence of Feed Pressure on Output Water:

Membrane test conditions are set at 55 bar, but you can safely work at 60 bar.
Don’t forget, however, that going from 55 to 60 bar increases the load on the pump motor by 10 percent, and consequently the current required and the heat that the motor must dissipate also increases.
So if you can work at 55 bar, be happy with that and do not put unnecessary stress on the motor, which is usually located in an engine room or in a confined space where the ambient temperature is already high and ventilation may be poor.

In summary:
As Pressure Increases:
– TDS is reduced
– Product flow rate is increased
As Pressure Decreases:
– TDS is increased
– Product flow rate is decreased

The watermaker should be commissioned within 4 to 6 max.weeks after delivery. This is because the membranes have been removed from their vacuum-sealed packaging to be mounted inside the vessels. Do not remove the plastic plugs on the vessel nipples so that no air circulates inside the membranes.
Remove them only when you are ready to connect the high pressure hoses.

If a longer time is needed between purchase and commissioning, it is recommended to have the membranes shipped in their original packages and insert them into the vessels at the time of assembly. Alternatively you can operate a “Long Term Preservation” procedure, as described in the Maintenance section.

Checking the installation for leaks and functioning

• Open the seawater valve.
  If you have installed a non-self-priming feed pump, make sure that it is also flooded.
• Turn the pressure regulation valve counterclockwise until it is fully open.
• Switch on the system with the main switch.
  It may be useful to fill the system beforehand. A short fresh water rinse by the onboard pressure pump will fill the system.
• Switch on the feed pump.
• Switch on the high pressure pump (pressure 0 BAR).
• Check that the seawater is drained.
• Bleed the system
  Vent the system by allowing it to operate depressurized.
  If there are air bubbles in the feed circuit, the high-pressure pump will run noisily and not smoothly.
  Do not increase the pressure as long as there are air bubbles in the line between the feed pump and the high-pressure pump.
  If the high-pressure pump is well supplied with water and the water regu-larly runs out of the outlet, you can increase the pressure.
• Slowly turn the pressure regulation valve clockwise until 40 bar is displayed on the pressure gauge.
  Allow the system to operate for a few seconds to release air from the circuit. The first produced water should now run out of the permeate hose.
• Slowly turn the pressure control valve clockwise until 55/60 bar is displayed on the pressure gauge.
  While doing this, watch the flow meter. Depending on the salinity of the seawater, either the maximum pressure or the maximum flow rate of your watermaker will be reached first.

IMPORTANT

• Do not exceed the maximum operating pressure of 55/60 bar, even if the nominal productivity of the watermaker is not achieved.
• Do not exceed the maximum production capacity of the watermaker.
• Check the system for leaks each time you run the watermaker.

Setting the safety valve

• Open the pressure regulation valve (2) completely.
• Open the safety valve (1) completely.
• Start the watermaker.
• Slowly close the pressure regulating valve (2) completely.
  The pressure should remain at 0 bar and all water is drained via the safety valve.
• Close the safety valve (1) slowly until 68 bar is displayed on the pressure gauge.
• Open the pressure regulation valve (2) completely
• Switch off the watermaker.

Now the watermaker is ready for producing freshwater.
Do not forget that the water produced in the first 1/2 hour needs to be discharged because of the preservative solution present in the membranes.

Membrane Storage Procedure

The composite polyamide type of the membrane elements must NEVER be exposed to chlorinated water.
Any such exposure will cause irreparable damage to the membranes.
Absolute care must be taken following the preparation of cleaning or storage solutions to ensure that no trace of chlorine is present in the water. Use ever distilled water or permeate water to carry out the operation.

The storage procedure is divided in three chapters, based on the duration of the storage:

• Short-term storage of the membrane elements in place in the vessels.
• Long-term storage of the membrane elements in place in the vessels.
• Dry storage of the membrane elements as spares or before assembling a watermaker.

Short-Term Storage (Maximum 30 days)

Short-term storage is for periods where the watermaker must remain out of operation for more than five days, but fewer than thirty days, with the membranes in place.

• Flush the watermaker with de-chlorinated water, while simultaneously venting any air from the system.
• When the vessels are filled, close the appropriate valves to prevent air from entering the system.
• Reflush as described above at 5-day intervals.

Long-Term Storage (Maximum 6 months)

Long-term storage is for periods where the watermaker must remain out of operation for more than 30 days with the membranes in place.

• Flush the watermaker with permeate water or in any case with de-chlorinated water
• Mount if our kit for preservation:
  – Remove the high pressure hoses from the inlet and the outlet of the membrane rack (In the “LIGHT version do not remove the high pressure unit at the outlet because the regulation valve will do the same work of the second valve of the kit)
  – Mount the two valves as shown in the images. Use 2 copper ring each valve. Close them and tighten slightly with a wrench.
  – Connect the hose to the automatic cheap pressure pump provided and to a 10 liters canister where you will prepare the preservative solution.
  – You have created a closed circle  
• Prepare 10 liters 1% SMBS (Sodium metabisulfite) solution. This means 100 gr. in 10 liters of distilled water or permeate water as told above.
  Every 2540 membrane contains 1.5 liters of water and every 2521 membrane contains about 1 liter of water.
  So add to the solution 15 gr of SMBS every 2540 membrane of your watermaker, and 10 gr every 2521 membrane.
• Wire the pump to a 12 Volt source, open the valve at the outlet of the membrane rack and then open the valve at the inlet. The pump will start.
• Recirculate the solution for a few minutes
• Close the valve at the outlet of the membrane rack and soon after the valve at the inlet (If you have a “Light” version close the completely the needle valve and then close the valve at the inlet).
• The vessels are now filled with preservative solution and no bubble of air should be inside. Check for drops/leaks. Flush the cheap pressure pump with some freshwater.
• Flush the system and replace the solution every 90 days if the temperature is below 25°C, or every 30 days if the temperature is above 25°C.
• When the watermaker is ready to be returned in service, remove the valves, clean them, reconnect the high pressure hoses, flush the plant and then start it. Discard the water produced in the first 30 minutes.
• With this system the solution os SMBS does not flow through the other components of the watermaker and the two valves ensure that the system does not empty or air enters
• Of course you can also arrange a similar system with your own fittings, the goal is that the vessels remain filled with solution and that the air does not enter.

Storage before installation

When RO/NF elements are stored prior to installation, they should be protected from direct sunlight and stored in a cool, dry place with an ambient temperature range of 5°C to 35°C
New Elements are enclosed in a sealed polyethylene bag containing a storage solution, and then packaged in a cardboard box.

Note: we have a quite big turnover of membranes, so they are never old. We recommend to use the new membranes within one year from the purchase.